I bet if we took a poll for the worst thing about the P38, super lock would be the uncontested winner. I have had my fair share of P38's and never had an issue with super lock until three days before the VOT.
Let me paint the picture for you. To prep for VOT I had the truck fully loaded with everything, roof rack, tent, jerrycans, sand ladders, the whole nine and I was driving it around town looking like a complete tool. All I needed was a Crocodile Dundee hat to complete the ultimate poser look
In my defense I was trying to work out any bugs with the new truck, suspension and extra weight.
So Top Chef Dave calls me up and says he's making chicken fajitas for VOT and asked if I would pick up some Corona beer to go with the dinner. I said yes having no idea I was about to enter the…………………………….
SUPER ……………. LOCK…………………… ZONE! " cue twilight zone music "
With all the stuff in the truck I decided to lock the door before I went into the store.
Back with the beer I manually unlocked the truck to my surprise it locked all the doors again but the driver. So I turned the key in the opposite direction and it relocked. With a puzzled look on my face I turn the key yet again. It locked all the doors but the driver. Happy to have access to the truck I opened the door only to be greeted by the horn. The buttons on the key fob were useless so I put the key in the ignition and turned it.
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Yep you guessed it, Nothing except for the kindly little reminder on the display saying I was screwed. Or is Land Rover puts it in a much more polite way engine immobilized.
The silver lining in all of this is I had access to the drivers door. So in the parking lot I put in my spare BECM and ECU. It is a real pain in the ass when you cannot opened the passenger door.
I can only imagine how many Toyotas I sold that day as people watched me practically lying upside down with my feet out the door to take out the passenger seat. On second thought I wish I had that Crocodile Dundee hat to hide my face.
The positive side is the BECM swap is relatively fast and painless. Plus I'm really glad that did not happen during VOT.
After a little research the culprit was the drivers door lock actuator. Never wanting to be locked out of the truck again I decided to disconnect the power plugs going to the two front door actuators.
I have now moved back in time and my doors were working on 1950 technology. To lock the door, push down to unlock, pull up. Perfect!! Basking in my own brilliance I went to the back of the truck to load the fridge with Corona and pushed this button.
Humbled once again. The rear hatch receives its ground through the plug in the passenger side door lock actuator. I had outsmarted myself. I could open any door except for the hatch. Off-again came the door card and I plugged in the passenger side door actuator. This granted me access to the hatch. Stripping down the hatch you'll see that Land Rover conveniently labeled all the wires the same color white.
You need to trace the ground side of the hatch actuator
all the way back to the cubby.
You can ground the white wire into the 12v convenience outlet like I did. With that done your hatch will always work. I have a relay idea that will allow the hatch to work only when the key is in the on position for people that need to keep the vehicle secured.
Next up will be traction action until then I leave you with this poser picture from VOT.
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